Author: Kevin Cotter

December 6 Club Meeting

We had a fun meeting, discussed a few topics: Extract Brewing, Upper Mississippi Mash-Out, Club Swag, 2012 Club Plans, and drank some beer. Style of the Month: Stouts (13A – 13F). We sampled our way up to Bells Expedition Stout (OG 1.11, ABV 10.5%). Consensus was this would be a good beer to stock up on and cellar. Fletty posed the question, “Why is it that on the web beere rate places RIS always rises to the top.” Answer: Because it’s so easy to hide the flaws from Mook Judges!

The next CoC competition is Dark Lagers – Brew NOW! They are due February 10. The category after that is Stout. If you fully comprehend the previous paragraph, you’ll want bring your best RIS to win. Stout entries are due March 17, 2012.

Scottish and Irish Ale entries are due Thursday, May 10, 2012.

Base Malt

What is a good base malt?
Depending on what your looking for:

Optic is as malty as you can get.
Pearl is the UK equiv of Rahr pale.
Golden promise has a touch of biscuit but lots of apple.
Halcyon is a very clean UK lager malt w/o the DMS
Dingeman pale is like cross between MO and Optic and a little darker than the rest.

Barley is the fourth most important grain crop in the United States. Barley is one of the oldest cultivated grains. Grains found in pits and pyramids in Egypt indicate that barley was cultivated there more than 5000 years ago.
Half the barley grown in the US gets used for livestock feed. As feed it is nearly equal in nutritive value to kernel corn. It is especially valuable as hog feed, giving desirable portions of firm fat and lean meat. The entire kernel is used in feed, generally after grinding or steam rolling. Malt sprouts from malting as well as brewers grain–byproducts of brewing–are also valuable livestock feeds.
Around 25 percent of barley crops are malted in the US. Of the malted barley some 80 percent is used for beer, around 14 percent for distilled alcohol products, and 6 percent for malt syrup, malted milk and breakfast foods.

September Club Meeting

Fletty passed around some traditional mead from various varietals of honey for sample and discussion, including: raspberry, blackberry, tupelo,  a blend of the 3, and an ’09 fruit mix. Jeff follwed with mystery beers, where we had to guess if they were pro or homebrewed. Some of the comments included…
“This makes my beer taste better.”
– Richard
“Pliny is like Bud Lite compared to this shit.”
– Fletty

Minnesota State Fair Home Brewed Beer, Mead and Cider Competition!

Judging will take place at the Minnesota State Fairgrounds on August 19th and 20th. If you’ve never judged the State Fair it’s held at the Creative Activities Building. NOTE: Preliminary judging not open to the general public.

Best-Of-Show Judging and Awards Ceremony will be held during the fair August 27, 2011, 11am – at the Education Building’s outdoor stage, adjacent to the Creative Activities building.

Kevin Cotter’s Brewing System

Here is my personal humble brewing setup. No fancy sculpture – just 2 Megapots and a Polarware mash-tun with a false bottom.

I do not have any pumps as of yet, so I have cobbled together anything I can find to achieve the correct heights to perform gravity fed witchcraft. Here I have a metal frame with a two-by-fours and header board stacked to get the proper height over the mash for sparging.
I have one working propane burner, so I have to move pots of hot liquid several times during the brew day to get the job done. “I’m just waiting for the day when I can scald myself silly.”

I do have some tools to make the jobs easier, like Phil’s Sparge Arm that works fine for smaller 5 gallon brewing jobs. KalenBorg left his chiller at my house, so I’ve been using it for about 3 years now. I live in the far south metro in Credit River Township, and as such, we hicks rely on well water. Mine is about 42 degrees out of the tap, which is great for rapid wort chilling. I have a temperature correcting light refractometer to take gravity readings. Last year I acquired a Thermolyne 7200 Stir Plate and I have a small PC fan taped to the side to keep the temperature down.
Kevin is in the process of building a Brutus 10 Clone – see progress here!

Jeremy Hodgson’s Brewing System

This is my set up. There aren’t any fancy pumps or stands just a couple kettles, immersion chiller, 10 gallon cooler mash tun, and a propane burner. I also have a 5 gallon megapot styled pot for decoctions. I use a 1 quart measuring cup and floating tupperware lid for sparging. After cleanup it all stacks nicely in the corner!

This was the first batch at the new apartment and I live on the second story. Not wanting to carry all this water down the stairs I hooked up an RV water hose to the sink and ran it out the window. To keep the hose from ripping off the faucet I used a copper pipe hanger and screwed it to the bottom of the counter.

James Henjum’s Brewing System

This is my set up. It’s a two tier rack to make use of gravity for the sparge and one pump for everything else. The top tier is a 10 gallon HLT that sparges into another 10 gallon MLT. The pump is used to recirculate the wort and to move it to the 15 gallon boil pot. The 2nd photo shows some of my accessories – pump, plate chiller and decoction pot.

Joe Gerteis’s Brewing System

The pictures show my garage brewery, which is still and always a work in progress.  For me, the brewing system had to be in the garage, and easy to move, disassemble, and store.  I only recently put in the heat resistant tile backer so that I can just keep it under the window (it opens up and I just hold it up there with a bungee cord — poor man’s ventilation!).  Maybe sometime I’ll be able to move everything into my basement and pipe it into natural gas, but that will require more major work than I can put in right now.  So it’s the garage for the near future at least.  The first picture is the burners/stands and kettles.  I got the burners and stands from a company in Louisiana that sells them as crawfish cookers.  The tanks are new — I used converted kegs with bazooka screens before.  You can see one of those kegs on the side.  The kegs work great but they are HEAVY and a bit of a pain to disassemble for cleaning.  So far these “Italian kettles” are great — heavier bottoms would be ideal, but I like the dimensions on these.
The other picture shows my pumps and chiller.  Since all my kettles are at the same height, one pump is a necessity.  Two just makes life a little easier.  (The heavy-duty one is a March model AC-3C-MD, the other is a March MDX model with a threaded head unit that I swapped on, so sort of custom.)  I screwed the pumps onto some bits of pine board and put little rubber pads under the boards to help keep them stable and dampen the vibration while they are running.  The chiller is the normal Shirron plate chiller with an added coupler and disconnect for the wort-in side.  I’ve upgraded elements over time as cash flow allowed.  Stainless valves from Northern Brewer on the kettles replaced cheapie brass ones.  I bought stainless reducers and valves for the pumps on sale online.  The other big upgrade besides the kettles themselves was the polysulfone disconnects.  For a couple of years I used a set of brass ones that I bought from McMaster-Carr.  They are really affordable and work fine but they get pretty hot.  The Polysulfone ones are great but I’ve managed to break a few, and they’re a bit pricey.  I have a secondary system (Rubbermaid cooler mashtun, smaller 8 gallon boiler) for kitchen brewing when it gets too cold for using the water supply hoses in the winter, but my stove is only just barely up to the task.  So I’m trying to figure a new way of running water lines out and back into my basement for the cold weather.

If I get ambitious I might try to use the extra welded coupler on the boil kettle to rig some kind of port for whirlpool…we’ll see.That’s it!

Joe GerteisPresident, St. Paul Homebrewers Club

Gas Hood

I thought I would share my notes on my talk about what I did to put an exaust hood on my basement brewery.

I wanted to go AG, but really needed to do it indoors since my work day never seems to end when I would like. I started this little project about 6 months ago, maybe more. I collected a couple of natural gas wok burners from a customer. My good friend Tom found a discarded but NEW hood on a job site. I had a blower from my furnace and AC change out.

I have put in a few hoods over the years, but they were ENGINEERED and very expensive. I found the MN Kitchen Hood Guidelines and made some calls to my friends. First things first SAFETY! If your going to attempt to do this, it is your RESPONSIBILITY to make sure ALL the gases and undesirables get taken out of the house without back drafting the other appliances.
Everyone has gone into a restaurant with doors are hard to open, and slam shut. This is an unbalanced system, and dangerous, because the system is most likely starved for air. I call it make up air, and if you don’t have the right amount it will come down your chimney or from another vent and into your living space.
Now to the fun I thought. I have every thing right? Wrong, I looked in the guidelines and the blower was not the right size. Dang it! So, me being the cheap skate I get another from a buddy. Oh still too big, so I called a friend at the city of Minneapolis, a true expert on kitchen hoods. The numbers we talk about told me; I need a make up air heater to use this thing in the winter.
I spend more time reading the commercial hood guidelines and MN mechanical code book. This is where I discover duty rating and how I should size it for the what I call my system. I installed a boil pot in my basement for making pasta!
So I finally find a inline draft inducer that gave me 250 cfm on a 7 inch pipe. Why is this important? Well a few years ago when the state of MN adopted the housing energy code they came up with 300 cfm and the free air before I would have to start using make up air.
Based on the type of system mine is light duty, this comes from MN mechanical code and MN kitchen hood which states in need 50 cfm per foot of hood. My hood is 5 feet long and it comes to 250 cfm.
Smoke test, a necessity when doing a hood. This is basically a smoke bomb I have used to check weather a furnace heat exchanger has a hole in it. I turned on the blower set the bomb by where the burners and make sure the neighbor knows I’m not on fire and test the draft. While this is going on I checked the draft on my water heater to make sure it wasn’t back drafting. You may have more than one Natural Draft Appliances – they ALL need to be checked.
Hood size the needs to be larger than the area you are collecting from. The guidelines do a very good job of explaining this. I designed my burner and pot locations based on the the free hood I got from Tom. I would not design my system from the beginning the way it has ended up (another topic for the future).
Safety! I have given you information to help you understand what I did. My system is safe, I have gone the extra mile to make sure. With knowledge comes responsibility, you have been given the knowledge to build and test a system. Don’t use this information and not test your system. Test your system often to make sure it is preforming.

Cheers Todd